Climbing in Colorado’s Eldorado Canyon

July 9, 2024 | Posted in: JHMG

Climbing in Colorado’s Eldorado Canyon

Nestled in the heart of Colorado’s Front Range, Eldorado Canyon State Park is a climber’s dream come true. Often referred to simply as “Eldo” by locals, it’s known for its golden sandstone cliffs, diverse climbing routes, and stunning natural beauty. 

A Climbing History Worth Knowing

Eldorado Canyon has a storied climbing history that dates back to the early 20th century. Early rock climbers, such as Layton Kor and Pat Ament, established many of the classic routes that climbers enjoy today. Their legacy lives on in the challenging and adventurous climbs that have made Eldo a legendary climbing destination.

Classic Climbs in Eldorado Canyon

Eldorado Canyon boasts over 500 climbing routes, offering a variety of styles and difficulties. Here are some classic climbs that every climber should experience:

Wind Ridge (5.6)

A fantastic introduction to Eldorado’s climbing, Wind Ridge is a moderate climb that offers solid rock and excellent protection. Its position on the Whale’s Tail formation provides stunning views and a great mix of climbing styles.

Bastille Crack (5.7)

One of the most famous routes in the canyon, Bastille Crack is a must-do for any visiting climber. This five-pitch climb features sustained crack climbing with excellent protection and exposure, making it a thrilling adventure.

Rewritten (5.7)

Known for its variety and quality of climbing, Rewritten is a multi-pitch route that offers everything from slab to crack climbing. The final pitch, the Rebuffat’s Arete, is a stunningly exposed ridge that provides a memorable finish.

The Yellow Spur (5.9)

For those looking for a bit more challenge, The Yellow Spur offers seven pitches of exhilarating climbing. This route combines face and crack climbing with spectacular exposure and beautiful views, making it a favorite among experienced climbers.

Planning Your Climb

When planning a climbing trip to Eldorado Canyon, it’s important to consider a few key factors.

Weather and Season

Eldorado Canyon’s climbing season typically runs from spring through fall. The park’s elevation and weather patterns mean that conditions can change rapidly, so be prepared for a range of temperatures and potential thunderstorms in the summer.

Gear and Preparation

Make sure you have the appropriate climbing gear, including a helmet, harness, climbing shoes, and a rack of protection (cams, nuts, quick draws). A guidebook or climbing app can be invaluable for navigating the routes and understanding the terrain.

Permits and Regulations

While Eldorado Canyon does not require permits for climbing, there is an entrance fee for the park. Be sure to follow all park regulations, including respecting closures for wildlife protection and practicing Leave No Trace principles.

Safety and Etiquette

Climbing in Eldorado Canyon can be demanding, so it’s crucial to prioritize safety. Always double-check your gear, communicate effectively with your climbing partner, and be aware of other climbers on popular routes.