Rappelling Safety: Common Mistakes and How to Back Up Your System

By Joel Enrico | American Mountain Guide

Why Rappelling Demands Extra Attention?

Unlike climbing, where the rope is actively managed by a belayer, rappelling places the entire responsibility for your safety on your own system. Every component, from the anchor to your harness to your brake hand, must work correctly.

The good news? Most rappelling accidents follow familiar patterns, making them largely preventable through consistent habits and careful partner checks.

What are the most common rappelling mistakes?

1. Not Checking the Anchor

Every rappel starts at the anchor.

Before committing your weight:

Inspect bolts, slings, webbing, chains, or natural anchors.

Look for worn webbing, corrosion, loose hardware, or sharp edges.

Confirm equalization if multiple anchor points are used.

Make sure the rope is threaded correctly.

Even fixed anchors should never be assumed to be trustworthy without inspection.

Instructions for Inspecting Anchors

2. Threading the Rope Incorrectly

One of the most dangerous mistakes is rigging the rope incorrectly.

Always verify:

You are at the middle of your rope. (use a rope friendly marker to find the middle easily - Chalk can be used in a pinch)

Both rope strands reach the ground or the next station.

Knots are tied in the rope ends.

The rope runs cleanly through the anchor.

The pull side is clearly identified if using a retrievable system.

A simple misthread can turn a routine descent into a catastrophic failure.

3. Forgetting Stopper Knots

Rappelling off the ends of the rope remains one of the leading causes of rappelling fatalities.

Tie stopper knots in both rope ends.

Verify middle before leaving the anchor.

Even experienced climbers can lose track of rope ends in poor visibility or complex terrain.

Guide Tip - Keep ropes organized by saddle bagging or pre stacking before throwing and it's easy to maintain visual confirmation on your ends.

How to Tie Stopper Knots

5. Losing Control of the Brake Hand

Your brake hand should never leave the rope while weighted.

Maintain:

A firm brake-hand position.

Controlled descent speed.

Proper stance with feet below you.

Clear awareness of loose clothing or gear that could snag the device.

6. Rushing the Process

Many accidents happen during transitions.

Before stepping over the edge, pause and verify:

Anchor

Rope

Harness

Device

Locking carabiner

Backup

Partner check (pre rig all climbers onto the lines so everyone can check each other)

Taking an extra 30 seconds is far better than trying to solve a problem mid-rappel.

Should You Back Up Your Rappel?

Yes.

Whenever practical, using an extended rappel and using a backup adds another layer of protection against human error.

An extended rappel tether makes sure your back up is effective and provides an easy attachment to the next anchor.

A backup can:

Help arrest a fall if you lose control.

Reduce consequences if your brake hand slips.

Increase confidence on long or exposed rappels.

A backup is not a substitute for proper technique—it complements it.

Different Tether Styles

What are common back ups?

Autoblock (Friction Hitch)

One of the most common backup methods is an autoblock friction hitch attached below the rappel device.

When correctly installed:

It slides freely during descent.

It grabs the rope when released.

It allows both hands to remain available for controlled movement.

Many guides teach the autoblock as a standard backup because it's simple, lightweight, and effective when used correctly.

What to look for with a partner check?

One of the easiest and most effective backups is another set of eyes.

Before every rappel, partners should verify:

✓ Harness doubled back (if applicable)

✓ Belay device threaded correctly

✓ Locking carabiner locked

✓ Rope through the anchor correctly

✓ Rope ends accounted for

✓ Backup installed

Experienced guides still perform partner checks on every descent, regardless of experience level.

Practice Before You Need It

The safest place to refine rappelling skills isn't halfway down a cliff it's in a controlled learning environment with professional instruction. We offer instructional trips in Red Rock, the Tetons, Colorado, and Moab.

Practicing under the supervision of experienced guides allows you to:

Learn efficient rope management.

Build consistent safety habits.

Understand anchor evaluation.

Practice backup systems correctly.

Develop confidence before committing to bigger objectives.