Granite Peak Expedition
Overview
Granite Peak, with an elevation of 12,803 feet (3,902 meters), is Montana’s highest peak. This formidable mountain is located in the heart of the remote and scenic Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, just north of Yellowstone National Park. It is a challenging climb requiring rock and snow mountaineering skills and has a lengthy and strenuous approach. Granite Peak is considered by many to be the most difficult high point summit after Denali. The Mountain Guides Montana is the oldest and most experienced guide service serving those who wish to climb Granite Peak. We offer our standard 5-day trip; we also have 6-day trips for those wishing to add a day, for weather reasons, fishing, or for a little more acclimatization and rest time.
Typically, Granite Peak climbs meet in Red Lodge, Montana, for a gear check with your guide as well as distribution of group gear the day before your climb begins. On day 1, you will meet your guide and caravan to the West Rosebud (Mystic Lake) trailhead and hike to Mystic Lake to set up camp and cover technical climbing skills on rock near the lake.
Day 2 moves from Mystic Lake to Camp 1, located approximately 7+ miles from and 4,200 ft. above the trailhead. Camp 1 is located at the very N.E. corner of the unique Froze-to-Death Plateau. Day 3 is much easier with only 3+ miles to hike and 1,600 ft. to gain. Camp 2, located at tempest Col, gives us an awesome view of Granite Peak’s North face, and situates us for an optimal approach on summit day. Weather providing, day 4 is summit day.
The East Ridge of Granite Peak is the most popular approach on summit day. Snowfields (boulders later in the season) and scrambling lead to the infamous “snowbridge”, a narrow ridge with steep couloirs falling away on both sides. Above, scrambling and 5.4 rock climbing interspersed with comfortable ledges lead to the summit. The descent uses the same route, usually requiring 2 or 3 rappels. On the final day lighter packs and downhill hiking make attaining the trailhead reasonable.
The itinerary for the 6-Day ascent of Granite Peak is exactly the same as the 5 day with one day built in for weather, acclimatization, or just one more fun day in the spectacular Beartooth mountains.
Typically, Granite Peak climbs meet in Red Lodge, Montana, for a gear check with your guide as well as distribution of group gear the day before your climb begins. On day 1, you will meet your guide and caravan to the West Rosebud (Mystic Lake) trailhead and hike to Mystic Lake to set up camp and cover technical climbing skills on rock near the lake.
Day 2 moves from Mystic Lake to Camp 1, located approximately 7+ miles from and 4,200 ft. above the trailhead. Camp 1 is located at the very N.E. corner of the unique Froze-to-Death Plateau. Day 3 is much easier with only 3+ miles to hike and 1,600 ft. to gain. Camp 2, located at tempest Col, gives us an awesome view of Granite Peak’s North face, and situates us for an optimal approach on summit day. Weather providing, day 4 is summit day.
The East Ridge of Granite Peak is the most popular approach on summit day. Snowfields (boulders later in the season) and scrambling lead to the infamous “snowbridge”, a narrow ridge with steep couloirs falling away on both sides. Above, scrambling and 5.4 rock climbing interspersed with comfortable ledges lead to the summit. The descent uses the same route, usually requiring 2 or 3 rappels. On the final day lighter packs and downhill hiking make attaining the trailhead reasonable.
6-Day Granite Peak Climb: $3950 private 1:1; $3350 pp/2:1
5-Day Granite Peak Climb: $3350 private; $2850 pp/2:1
Price includes breakfasts and dinners (i.e., evening meal) while in the backcountry, technical climbing gear, tent and group cooking gear. *** PORTERS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Price does not include equipment drop/portage and shuttle fees.
Training is required for all guests without extensive traditional multi-pitch rock climbing experience.
Private trips cannot be booked directly online based on scheduling, please click here to inquire about specific dates for a private trip. Please read through our policies by visiting this page.
The Mountain Guides Montana schedules Granite Peak trips starting in mid July through August. However, early July and September can also be an excellent time. We are happy to schedule a trip for your group any time during the season. We have pre-set dates for Granite Peak trip but we are able to create custom itineraries when needed.
Equipment
TMGM supplies camping permits, tents, stoves, and climbing gear as needed. Clients are welcome to use their own climbing gear but please coordinate with our office. TMGM supplies breakfasts and dinners; clients are responsible for trail food, lunches and beverages.
Keep in mind the strenuous wilderness character of Granite trips; gear should be light and in good repair. Minimize luxury items.
Footwear traditionally raises questions. Typical conditions through July require boots sturdy enough for snow travel and strap-on style crampons. Plastic double mountaineering boots are not suitable- they are too bulky and heavy. A mid-weight leather or kevlar boot is far better. In late July and August, light hiking boots and approach shoes work well.
Packs need to be large enough for personal gear plus your share of the group gear and food. We recommend at least a 55 Liter pack for the main trip and an additional 20 liter day pack that can be stowed away until summit day. We offer the rental of both of these styles of packs.
High-tech rain gear made of breathable fabric is great but is often very expensive. Rain gear made of coated nylon will do the job for much less cost.
Porters are strongly encouraged and are available starting at $330.00 per day. The terrain is not suitable for horse packing.
Footwear
- Mountain Boots: Most trips between July 15 and the middle of August will require a crampon-compatible mountain boot – Guide Pick: Scarpa Zodiac Tech
- Sticky Rubber Approach Shoes are suitable for much of August.
- We will check in with you about recommended footwear if your trip is on the cusp of the timeline for snow vs no snow.
- Socks: 2-4 pairs: sized for your boots and blister prevention
Upper Layers
- Synthetic/Wool Long Underwear Top
OR
- Synthetic/ Wool Sun Hoody
- Synthetic T-shirt
- Insulating Jacket: lightweight fleece or synthetic
- Soft Shell: fleece or pile
- Rain Jacket: waterproof/breathable with hood.
Bottom Layers
- Synthetic/Wool Long Underwear Bottom
- Hiking Short or Pant for approach
- Synthetic Climbing Pant
- Rain Pant
Accessories
- Hat: lightweight to medium-weight warm hat – sleek enough to be worn under a helmet
- Gloves: BRING TWO PAIR – one lightweight to medium weight pair – synthetic or fleece material. If snow route, shell also recommended.
On the trail
- Alpine Climbing Pack – Internal frame only. 45 to 5O L for 2 or 4 day trip. Large enough to fit all your personal gear plus ten pounds of food and water.
- Sleeping Bag
- Water Bottles (2-3 L/Qt.) or H2O hydration system
- Water Treatment – Steripen or Squeeze filters
- Closed-toed camp shoes (optional)
- Stuff Sacks: zip lock bags
- Dark Sunglasses
- Extra Contact Lenses
- Sun Hat or Visor
- Sunscreen (35+SPF)
- Lip Balm
- Headlamp and Fresh Batteries
- First Aid – minimal: blister care, analgesic, etc.
- Lunch, snacks & drink mix.
- Misc Items: minimal: light knife, camera,
bandana, camp suds, washcloth, etc.
Some trips require (please inquire with JHMG):
- Sleeping Pad: Closed-cell foam or Thermarest
Recommended & Optional Items
- Trekking Poles
- Camera and batteries, spare memory card
- Insoles: custom or aftermarket
- Insect Repellent (Ask the office if this is necessary)
- Headnet (Ask the office if this is necessary)
- Camp Shoe – lightweight
Cold Weather Considerations:
Early and late-season temperatures require warmer clothing. You may consider additional clothing if you get cold easily or if it is unusually cold or windy.
- Buff or neck gaiter
- Extra down vest or jacket
- Expedition weight long underwear
- Extra gloves
**The Mountain Guides supplies all the rock climbing gear, harnesses, helmets, locking carabiners & belay/rappel devices, crampons, and ice axes. However, you are welcome to bring your own equipment. Please coordinate with your guide or our office for gear checks. Backpacks can be rented from our Montana branch and boots may be rented from our Jackson office but must be organized by individual clients rather than by TMGM.
For your safety and comfort, bring synthetic and or natural fiber clothing for insulation. Cotton is NOT recommended and down must be kept dry. Clothing should be able to layer without encumbering movement.
Best Airports:
We recommend that clients fly into the area the day before the trip begins. This makes sure that everyone is ready to go for Day 1 and we are not waiting on plane delays.
Billings-Logan International Airport
Bozeman-Yellowstone International Airport
Pre-trip Accommodations:
We recommend that clients stay in Red Lodge Montana the night before the trip leaves. There are several options when searching lodging in Red Lodge Montana.
Transportation:
You will need to rent a vehicle to get from Bozeman or Billings to Red Lodge. This is about a 2 hour drive. You will not be able to rely on TMGM for any transportation.
Granite Peak require you to plan on having your own local transportation; it’s a good idea to reserve rental cars as early as possible.