Granite Peak Expedition

Adventure
Adventure
Pin
Beartooth Wilderness
summer
Summer
–
fall
Fall
difficult
Difficult

Overview

Guided Granite Peak Climb: Montana’s Highest Summit

Granite Peak, with an elevation of 12,803 feet (3,902 meters), is Montana’s highest peak. This formidable mountain is located in the heart of the remote and scenic Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, just north of Yellowstone National Park. It is a challenging climb requiring rock and snow mountaineering skills and has a lengthy and strenuous approach. Granite Peak is considered by many to be the most difficult high point summit after Denali.

The Mountain Guides Montana is the oldest and most experienced guide service serving climbers who want to stand on top of Granite Peak. We offer a standard five-day trip and a six-day option that adds a day for weather, fishing, or a little more acclimatization and rest.

Granite Peak at a Glance

  • Location: Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, Montana, north of Yellowstone; trips meet in Red Lodge
  • Elevation: 12,803 feet (3,902 m), the Montana state high point
  • Length: 5 days, or 6 days with a built-in weather day
  • Prerequisites: Strong fitness; training is required for guests without extensive traditional multi-pitch rock experience
  • Route: East Ridge via the Froze-to-Death Plateau and the famous snowbridge; 5.4 rock and 2 to 3 rappels
  • Season: July through early September

What You'll Climb

  • Day 1: caravan to the West Rosebud (Mystic Lake) trailhead, hike to Mystic Lake and cover technical rock skills near camp
  • Day 2: 7-plus miles and 4,200 feet of gain to Camp 1 on the Froze-to-Death Plateau
  • Day 3: a shorter day to Camp 2 at Tempest Col with a view of Granite’s north face
  • Day 4 (weather permitting): summit via the East Ridge, snowfields or boulders to the snowbridge, then scrambling and 5.4 rock to the top; descend the same way with 2 to 3 rappels
  • Final day: lighter packs and downhill hiking back to the trailhead

Trip Format

Climbs typically meet in Red Lodge, Montana, the day before for a gear check and distribution of group gear. The six-day itinerary is identical to the five-day with one extra day built in for weather, acclimatization, or another day in the Beartooths. Camping permits, tents, stoves and climbing gear are supplied; porters are strongly encouraged, since the terrain is not suitable for horse packing. Full details are in the Itinerary and Equipment tabs.

Who This Climb Is For & Prerequisites

Granite Peak is considered by many the most difficult state high point after Denali. It demands rock and snow mountaineering skills and a long, strenuous approach with a heavy pack. The climb is open to fit, motivated climbers; training is required for anyone without extensive traditional multi-pitch rock climbing experience. Through mid-July expect boots sturdy enough for snow travel and strap-on crampons; later in the season light boots or approach shoes work well.

Why Climb Granite Peak with The Mountain Guides Montana

  • The oldest and most experienced guide service on Granite Peak
  • AMGA-trained and certified guides, technical gear, tents and group cooking gear included
  • Pre-set dates plus custom itineraries for private groups

Plan Your Granite Peak Expedition

Trips run mid-July through August, with early July and September also excellent. Private trips are booked by inquiry; see the Schedule tab.

Typically, Granite Peak climbs meet in Red Lodge, Montana, for a gear check with your guide as well as distribution of group gear the day before your climb begins. On day 1, you will meet your guide and caravan to the West Rosebud (Mystic Lake) trailhead and hike to Mystic Lake to set up camp and cover technical climbing skills on rock near the lake.

Day 2 moves from Mystic Lake to Camp 1, located approximately 7+ miles from and 4,200 ft. above the trailhead. Camp 1 is located at the very N.E. corner of the unique Froze-to-Death Plateau. Day 3 is much easier with only 3+ miles to hike and 1,600 ft. to gain. Camp 2, located at tempest Col, gives us an awesome view of Granite Peak’s North face, and situates us for an optimal approach on summit day. Weather providing, day 4 is summit day.

The East Ridge of Granite Peak is the most popular approach on summit day. Snowfields (boulders later in the season) and scrambling lead to the infamous “snowbridge”, a narrow ridge with steep couloirs falling away on both sides.  Above, scrambling and 5.4  rock climbing interspersed with comfortable ledges lead to the summit.  The descent uses the same route, usually requiring 2 or 3 rappels.  On the final day lighter packs and downhill hiking make attaining the trailhead reasonable.

Check Availability

5-day ascent6-day ascent

406-344-7515