Single Day Teton Rock Climbing Objectives

Storm Point II, 5.6-5.9

One of the most popular of all the Teton rock climbs, and justifiably so. Good rock, great scenery, fun climbing with lots of variations, and ease of approach make up a very fine day-long outing. Located a few miles up Cascade Canyon, Guides Wall is fairly challenging and the descent includes some long rappels, so rock climbing experience is a must. One of its nicest aspects is that by utilizing variations it can be made shorter or longer, easier or harder as conditions and desires warrant. The variations also mean that a climber can return on another day and do the route with all sorts of different pitches. Guides Wall faces the sun and is below 9000 feet so it can be a beautiful climb when the peaks are totally out of condition. The high quality of this climb leads to its only drawback, in mid-summer it is often crowded. Guides Wall was first ascended in 1949 by the team of Dick Pownall and Art Gilkey, a year after they pioneered their familiar route on the Grand.

Death Canyon IV, 5.9

Since Chouinard and Hemple pioneered this route in 1964 it has been acknowledged as one of the best of the difficult Teton rock climbs. This classic, located on the steep walls of Death Canyon, is a long and sustained challenge for skillful climbers. Nine or more pitches follow a shallow dihedral sprinkled with overhangs, ultimately topping out on slabs and benches high above the canyon floor. Adjacent to The Snaz is another great climb, Caveat Emptor, an even more difficult test for the advanced climber. The Snaz is a long and very strenuous one-day climb but the approach is benign by Teton standards. It is a few miles up the Death Canyon trail with relatively little elevation gain. The climb faces the sun and is below 9000 feet so conditions are generally less harsh than on the big peaks.

 Symmetry Spire – Southwest Ridge – 10,560’ II, 5.7

The highly recommended Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire is one of the range’s best technical climbs for those seeking to gain experience on mountain rock routes. Steep but moderate fifth class pitches up the sweeping ridge are enhanced by the stunning views. Located above Jenny Lake, the Southwest Ridge is one of the most accessible summit routes in the Tetons. Its ascent is a moderately long one-day climb. In early season snow climbing skills are necessary for the approach and descent.

Symmetry Spire – Durrance Ridge 10,560+’ II 5.6

The Durrance Ridge, named for pioneering climber Jack Durrance, is a longtime favorite technical climb to the top of Symmetry Spire. It is similar in difficulty to the popular Southwest Ridge but is considerably longer, offering many delightful moderate pitches. It is a long one-day climb from the shores of Jenny Lake. The approach and descent require snow-climbing skills in early season.

Symmetry Spire – East Ridge 10,560’ II, 4th class

The East Ridge of Symmetry Spire is one of the best easy routes around. A very satisfactory traverse of the peak can be made by approaching this ridge via beautiful Hanging Canyon and descending by way of the Southwest Couloir. A minimum of technical skill is required, as most of the terrain is simple scrambling. It is done as a one-day climb with time to savor the scenery. Snow climbing skills are necessary in early season.

Symmetry Spire – Southwest Couloir – II, 4th class

Symmetry Spire’s Southwest Couloir is a great introduction to the Tetons for beginning mountaineers. A one-day climb above Jenny Lake, it is especially interesting in early season when snow couloirs add flavor. Once the snow is gone it is mostly steep hiking with a few hundred feet of exposed terrain to the summit. The more ambitious can combine this peak with Ice Point and/or Storm Point.

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Ice Point 9,920+’ II, 4th class

This small peak, perched on a ridge above Jenny Lake, is one of the very best for those new to mountaineering. It offers a bit of everything: hiking, scrambling, early-season snow, and an easy technical ridge to an exciting summit. The views are unsurpassed. A full day is required but it is much less energy-intensive than most of the one-day Teton climbs. This route, named the Northwest Ridge, is our favorite for those who have taken a basic school and want to sample a technical summit.