Overnight Alpine Summits in Teton Range
Overview
While the Grand Teton is by far the most known Peak in the Tetons, this range has a number of objectives that are equally as spectacular. Whether it be the East Ridge of Mt. Owen, the East Face Buck Mountain or the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, can design an overnight climb that will accommodate any goal or skill level.
Southwest Couloir 12,804′ II, 3rd class
Once the snow has melted out of the Southwest Couloir the climb to the summit becomes mostly a scramble with a few climbing moves here and there. The approach to the Southwest Couloir is long and arduous. We recommend most parties consider making an overnight of the climb and make a camp in the South Fork. Until the beginning of July this route offers steep snow climbing and great views of the Tetons. The climbing itself is not difficult but the day is long and the slopes exposed. We require participants have a snow class or equivalent experience.
Northwest Couloir – 12,514′, 4th class
Most people combine the South Teton with an ascent of the Middle Teton. The approach is long and arduous so one might as well sit on two summits for the work involved. We highly recommend that you consider camping in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon and make the asent of both these great peaks an overnight affair. Be advised that early season snow may require a snow class or equivalent experience.
Southeast Ridge – 11,938’ II, 4th class
Buck Mountain’s Southeast Ridge is one of the better easy technical routes to a major Teton summit. Although not particularly difficult, it is a fine example of classic Teton mountaineering. The approach is via Stewart Draw past Timberline Lake and requires snow climbing skills until mid-season. Buck Mountain is usually done either as a long day climb or as a comfortable two-day trip. The campsite is in the timber in a boulder-scattered basin 2500 feet above the valley floor. We particularly recommend the two-day trip as a great introduction to Teton climbing for entry-level climbers, for those with families, and for those seeking a less-strenuous trip.
East Face and Ridge- Buck Mtn 11,938’ II, 4th class
Buck Mtn is the southern-most of the big granite Teton peaks. It is usually approached via the Stewart Draw and is much less traveled than the central peaks. The East Face, rising above Timberline Lake, is a straightforward snow climb in early and mid-season. A favorite alternate route is the adjacent East Ridge, a scenic technical climb combining snow with easy rock. It’s a great place for acquiring moutaineering experience in a spectacular setting. Buck Mtn is usually done either as a long day climb or as a comfortable two-day trip. The campsite is in the timber in a boulder-scattered basin 2500 feet above the valley floor. We particularly recommend the two-day trip as a great introduction to Teton climbing for entry-level climbers, for those with families, and for those seeking a less-strenuous trip.
Koven/East Ridge – Mt Owen 12,928’ II, 5.4-5.6
Mt Owen is second only to the Grand Teton in elevation and many consider it to be a more difficult peak. Two rewarding routes, the Koven and the East Ridge, offer the moderately experienced climber the best in classic mountaineering. Because the routes are the same up to the summit formation, they are included together. The East Ridge tackles Mt. Owen’s summit via rock that is a bit more challenging than the line the Koven Route follows to the top. Snow climbing skills are required for much of the season to negotiate steep snowfields and couloirs. The routes enter the fascinating cirque of the Teton Glacier and the views of the North Face of the Grand are very impressive. Mt Owen is ascended on a three-day trip with a camp carried high into Glacier Gulch. The second day is usually long and strenuous; a second night at camp is not required before descending.
2-Day South Teton, Middle Teton and Buck Mtn: $1440 Private 1:1; $1160 / person for a group of two; $950 / person for a group of 3.
3-Day Mt. Owen or Middle Teton Buckingham Ridge: $2565 private, $1827 / person for a group of two.
A prep day may be required for Mount Owen or the Buckingham Ridge depending on your experience.
Please read through our policies by visiting this page.
CLICK HEREÂ to check availability for South or Middle Teton Climbs.
For other Middle / South Teton dates and Buck Mountain or Mount Owen climbs CLICK HERE to submit an inquiry.
Footwear
Objective Dependent – Scarpa footwear is available at Jackson Hole Mountain Guides for rent. JHMG also carries a selection of rock shoes for rent.
- Sticky Rubber Approach Shoes: required for all mid-summer climbs (mid-July through Sept). Guide Pick: Scarpa Crux  (Available for rent)
OR
- Mountain Boots: Most trips before July 15 and all Gannett Peak Climbs, require a crampon-compatible mountain boot – Guide Pick: Scarpa Zodiac Tech  (Available for rent)
- Rock Shoes for technical rock routes (Available for rent)
- Socks: 2-4 pairs: sized for your boots and blister prevention
Upper Layers
- Synthetic/Wool Long Underwear Top
- OR
- Synthetic/ Wool Sun Hoody
- Synthetic T-shirt
- Insulating Jacket: lightweight fleece or synthetic
- Soft Shell: fleece or pile
- Rain Jacket: waterproof/breathable with hood.
Bottom Layers
- Synthetic/Wool Long Underwear Bottom
- Hiking Short or Pant for approach
- Synthetic Climbing Pant
- Rain Pant
Accessories
- Hat: lightweight to medium-weight warm hat – sleek enough to be worn under a helmet
- Gloves: BRING TWO PAIR – one lightweight to medium weight pair – synthetic or fleece material. If snow route, shell also recommended.
On the trail
- Alpine Climbing Pack – Internal frame only. 45 to 5O L for 2 or 4 day trip. Large enough to fit all your personal gear plus ten pounds of food and water.
- Sleeping Bag
- Water Bottles (2-3 L/Qt.) or H2OÂ hydration system
- Water Treatment – Steripen or other
- Closed-toed camp shoes (optional)
- Stuff Sacks: zip lock bags
- Dark Sunglasses
- Extra Contact Lenses
- Sun Hat or Visor
- Sunscreen (35+SPF)
- Lip Balm
- Headlamp and Fresh Batteries
- First Aid – minimal: blister care, analgesic, etc.
- Lunch, snacks & drink mix.
- Misc Items: minimal: light knife, camera,
bandana, camp suds, washcloth, etc.
Some trips require (please inquire with JHMG):
- Sleeping Pad: Closed-cell foam or Thermarest
Recommended & Optional Items
- Trekking Poles
- Camera and batteries, spare memory card
- Insoles: custom or aftermarket
- Insect Repellent (Ask the office if this is necessary)
- Headnet (Ask the office if this is necessary)
- Camp Shoe – lightweight
Cold Weather Considerations:
Early and late-season temperatures require warmer clothing. You may consider additional clothing if you get cold easily or if it is unusually cold or windy.
- Buff or neck gaiter
- Extra down vest or jacket
- Expedition weight long underwear
- Extra gloves
**The Mountain Guides supplies all the rock climbing gear, harnesses, helmets, locking carabiners & belay/rappel devices, crampons, and ice axes. However, you are welcome to bring your own equipment. Please coordinate with our office for gear checks. Backpacks, rock shoes, and boots can all be rented & purchased in our Jackson office.
For your safety and comfort, bring synthetic and or natural fiber clothing for insulation. Cotton
is NOT recommended and down must be kept dry. Clothing should be able to layer without
encumbering movement.
Grand Teton National Park is located roughly 30 minutes from our Jackson, WY headquarters. Our Jackson office is located in the south part of Jackson at 1325 S. Highway 89, Suite 104 and shares a parking area with Smith’s. Our phone number is (800) 239-7642 or (307) 733-4979. Most trips and classes will meet at this office for gear checks, preparation, and classes. The Jackson Hole airport is the closest, but Idaho Falls (a 2 – 2.5 hour drive) is a cheaper option and Salt Lake City (4 – 5 hour drive) are also air travel options. It is helpful to arrive a couple of days prior to your trip/class in order to acclimatize. Otherwise, you should arrive the day before and stop by our office for an equipment check. Do not plan on traveling the day after a significant climb – you will be tired and there are no guaranteed times when we will return to the trailhead. Plan on having accommodations for the night prior to and the night you return from a significant climb. There are a plethora of hotels, motels, and bed and breakfasts in Jackson and the surrounding area. Accommodations near our office make your transitions convenient. It is highly advisable to make reservations as early as possible. Lodging recommendations and many more details can be found in the downloadable document below.