Mt. Moran Summit Experience
Overview
Rising dramatically from Jackson and Leigh Lakes, Mt. Moran is the most striking mountain in the northern Tetons. From Jackson Lake Lodge, it is one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. It is a unique and remote climbing experience. Since there are no maintained trails to the base of the mountain the approach is made by canoe. In early summer we climb the Skillet Glacier, an elegant snow climb leading directly to the summit. Once the snow melts and the rock dries out, we change to the CMC route, a classic rock route on the southeast face. For the ultimate wilderness mountaineering experience, consider Mt. Moran’s dramatic Direct South Buttress, described in Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. For a moderate, yet strikingly beautiful, route to this imposing summit, Mt. Moran’s CMC route is an excellent choice. Let us help you choose one best suited to your ability and enthusiasm.
CMC Route- Mt Moran 12,605’ II, 5.5
The favored summer rock route is the CMC, a long moderate technical climb. On the first day, we canoe across Leigh Lake then hike up the steep slopes to the stunning CMC camp, one of the best sites in the range. The climbing route is complex and time consuming so a second night is spent at the camp before returning to the valley on the third day.
A one or two day training course will be required for this climb, depending on experience level and climbing history.
Skillet Glacier – Mt Moran 12,605’ II, snow/ice AI2+
The Skillet Glacier is a remarkable feature that provides a moderate snow and ice route up the massive Mt Moran. Best done in early season, this unique route is a fine challenge for those seeking a to broaden their experience on a big mountain snow route. It’s also the most efficient way to climb Moran. On day one, we use canoes to cross Jackson Lake and hike 2,900 feet up a wild drainage to camp on the glacier’s moraine. The next morning, sustained snow climbing up to 50 degrees leads directly to the summit. On the last day we descend the mountain and canoe home.
A one or two day training course will be required for this climb, depending on experience level and climbing history.
3-Day Mount Moran Summit Experience: $2565 private; $1827 per person in group of two.
A prep day may be required depending on your experience.
A backcountry permit fee of $45 is charged for this adventure.
CLICK HERE to see available trips.
Footwear
Objective Dependent – Scarpa footwear is available at Jackson Hole Mountain Guides for rent. JHMG also carries a selection of rock shoes for rent.
- Sticky Rubber Approach Shoes: required for all mid-summer climbs (mid-July through Sept). Guide Pick: Scarpa Crux (Available for rent)
OR
- Mountain Boots: Most trips before July 15 and all Gannett Peak Climbs, require a crampon-compatible mountain boot – Guide Pick: Scarpa Zodiac Tech (Available for rent)
- Rock Shoes for technical rock routes (Available for rent)
- Socks: 2-4 pairs: sized for your boots and blister prevention
Upper Layers
- Synthetic/Wool Long Underwear Top
- OR
- Synthetic/ Wool Sun Hoody
- Synthetic T-shirt
- Insulating Jacket: lightweight fleece or synthetic
- Soft Shell: fleece or pile
- Rain Jacket: waterproof/breathable with hood.
Bottom Layers
- Synthetic/Wool Long Underwear Bottom
- Hiking Short or Pant for approach
- Synthetic Climbing Pant
- Rain Pant
Accessories
- Hat: lightweight to medium-weight warm hat – sleek enough to be worn under a helmet
- Gloves: BRING TWO PAIR – one lightweight to medium weight pair – synthetic or fleece material. If snow route, shell also recommended.
On the trail
- Alpine Climbing Pack – Internal frame only. 45 to 5O L for 2 or 4 day trip. Large enough to fit all your personal gear plus ten pounds of food and water.
- Sleeping Bag
- Water Bottles (2-3 L/Qt.) or H2O hydration system
- Water Treatment – Steripen or other
- Closed-toed camp shoes (optional)
- Stuff Sacks: zip lock bags
- Dark Sunglasses
- Extra Contact Lenses
- Sun Hat or Visor
- Sunscreen (35+SPF)
- Lip Balm
- Headlamp and Fresh Batteries
- First Aid – minimal: blister care, analgesic, etc.
- Lunch, snacks & drink mix.
- Misc Items: minimal: light knife, camera,
bandana, camp suds, washcloth, etc.
Some trips require (please inquire with JHMG):
- Sleeping Pad: Closed-cell foam or Thermarest
Recommended & Optional Items
- Trekking Poles
- Camera and batteries, spare memory card
- Insoles: custom or aftermarket
- Insect Repellent (Ask the office if this is necessary)
- Headnet (Ask the office if this is necessary)
- Camp Shoe – lightweight
Cold Weather Considerations:
Early and late-season temperatures require warmer clothing. You may consider additional clothing if you get cold easily or if it is unusually cold or windy.
- Buff or neck gaiter
- Extra down vest or jacket
- Expedition weight long underwear
- Extra gloves
**The Mountain Guides supplies all the rock climbing gear, harnesses, helmets, locking carabiners & belay/rappel devices, crampons, and ice axes. However, you are welcome to bring your own equipment. Please coordinate with our office for gear checks. Backpacks, rock shoes, and boots can all be rented & purchased in our Jackson office.
For your safety and comfort, bring synthetic and or natural fiber clothing for insulation. Cotton
is NOT recommended and down must be kept dry. Clothing should be able to layer without
encumbering movement.
Grand Teton National Park is located roughly 30 minutes from our Jackson, WY headquarters. Our Jackson office is located in the south part of Jackson at 1325 S. Highway 89, Suite 104 and shares a parking area with Smith’s. Our phone number is (800) 239-7642 or (307) 733-4979. Most trips and classes will meet at this office for gear checks, preparation, and classes. The Jackson Hole airport is the closest, but Idaho Falls (a 2 – 2.5 hour drive) is a cheaper option and Salt Lake City (4 – 5 hour drive) are also air travel options. It is helpful to arrive a couple of days prior to your trip/class in order to acclimatize. Otherwise, you should arrive the day before and stop by our office for an equipment check. Do not plan on traveling the day after a significant climb – you will be tired and there are no guaranteed times when we will return to the trailhead. Plan on having accommodations for the night prior to and the night you return from a significant climb. There are a plethora of hotels, motels, and bed and breakfasts in Jackson and the surrounding area. Accommodations near our office make your transitions convenient. It is highly advisable to make reservations as early as possible. Lodging recommendations and many more details can be found in the downloadable document below.